skullbrain.org :: View topic - Has this ever happened to you?

Vombie wrote:

that. sucks. ass.

:evil:

never seen that before. I hope it's an easy fix.

akumaizer wrote:

You have to be careful with the heat generated from an A/B resin...
That would not be my first choice, try two part epoxy putty instead.
Heat the whole vinyl soft by immersing in hot water, pop the arm out
superglue the crack to seal it and back the crack from the inside of the vinyl
with a well kneaded glob of epoxy putty. Let the putty cure overnight, heat the body back up and pop the arm back in.... you'll never notice the difference.

akumaizer wrote:

Robert DeCastro wrote:

Oh BTW I was able to get Autodactyl a replacement FP. All is well again $\":lol:\"$

bansheebot wrote:

Robert DeCastro wrote:

Oh BTW I was able to get Autodactyl a replacement FP. All is well again :lol:

Where are you finding all of these? Whoever has a stockpile, please don't hesitate to contact me.

Author:	Robert DeCastro [ Mon Nov 26, 2007 3:25 pm ]
Post subject:	Has this ever happened to you?
Was turning the arms down and noticed that it moved sorta funny then noticed arms has a small split. Any o yous guys experience this? The arms wasn't on too tight and it seemed to move freely. Could this be a factory defect? Kinda sucks ass. I can superglue it but that would mean his arms will be in a fixed position. Any ideas on how to fix this without loosing the articulation?

Author:	Vombie [ Mon Nov 26, 2007 3:33 pm ]
Post subject:
that. sucks. ass. never seen that before. I hope it's an easy fix.

Author:	gatchabert [ Mon Nov 26, 2007 3:36 pm ]
Post subject:
That's pretty nasty. I guess you could pop the arm out after heating. I'd take the head off and then try to push the arm out so you can glue it back together. You'd have to heat it up really good and then let it sit for a bit before applying any glue. The key here is to heat it up real good so it will easily come off. You'll want to push the flash and not the inside of the actual shoulder/arm. That's how I would do it. I'm sure others will have different methods. I can MS Paint a diagram if this sounds a bit confusing...hehe.

Author:	liquidsky [ Mon Nov 26, 2007 3:51 pm ]
Post subject:
Check with Frank, I'm sure he would have some good ideas about what could be done.

Author:	Autodactyl [ Mon Nov 26, 2007 3:55 pm ]
Post subject:
that was supposed to be mine! can this be sent back to the factory?

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Author:	toybotstudios [ Mon Nov 26, 2007 3:57 pm ]
Post subject:
bummmer......

Author:	Robert DeCastro [ Mon Nov 26, 2007 8:26 pm ]
Post subject:
I have some strong leads on a couple of replacement FPs for Autodactyl. I have an idea how the one I have can be salvaged. I'll block off enough room to fill just the shoulder area of the partially split arm with black tinted resin. I'll fill it all the way to the top of the cone part of the arm where it plugs into the body. When it turns solid it should be strong enough to not be an issue. I'll just have to make sure to really heat the body so that I can slip the arm back on. Now I have a couple of questions. Will the paint hold up when I reheat this sucker? What is the safest way to heat it up? Hair dryer? Hot water? A heat gun would prob be too much huh? Now before I do this I want your opinion weather RxH would consider sending a replacement/repair on this? I'm only asking cause Auto suggested it. Me? I say they couldn't do anything about it but I would like to hear your opinions.

Author:	akumaizer [ Mon Nov 26, 2007 8:42 pm ]
Post subject:
You have to be careful with the heat generated from an A/B resin... That would not be my first choice, try two part epoxy putty instead. Heat the whole vinyl soft by immersing in hot water, pop the arm out superglue the crack to seal it and back the crack from the inside of the vinyl with a well kneaded glob of epoxy putty. Let the putty cure overnight, heat the body back up and pop the arm back in.... you'll never notice the difference.

Author:	Vombie [ Mon Nov 26, 2007 8:43 pm ]
Post subject:
akumaizer wrote: You have to be careful with the heat generated from an A/B resin... That would not be my first choice, try two part epoxy putty instead. Heat the whole vinyl soft by immersing in hot water, pop the arm out superglue the crack to seal it and back the crack from the inside of the vinyl with a well kneaded glob of epoxy putty. Let the putty cure overnight, heat the body back up and pop the arm back in.... you'll never notice the difference. remind me never to trade anything with you.

Author:	Robert DeCastro [ Mon Nov 26, 2007 9:23 pm ]
Post subject:
akumaizer wrote: You have to be careful with the heat generated from an A/B resin... That would not be my first choice, try two part epoxy putty instead. Heat the whole vinyl soft by immersing in hot water, pop the arm out superglue the crack to seal it and back the crack from the inside of the vinyl with a well kneaded glob of epoxy putty. Let the putty cure overnight, heat the body back up and pop the arm back in.... you'll never notice the difference. Epoxy putty. Got lots of those too. I've worked with resin for many years and have never experience heat that vinyl couldn't take. Specially in the small amounts that I would be using. Expansion wouldn't be a concern either cause it has an opening it could escape from and is only bad on old resin. Might go with epoxy tho cause it's less messy. Thanks!!

Author:	eldorado [ Mon Nov 26, 2007 9:29 pm ]
Post subject:
Gatcha has the plan with a dash of Crazy glue it will be fixed

Author:	gatchabert [ Mon Nov 26, 2007 9:46 pm ]
Post subject:
I go the hair dryer way. You can add more heat when needed versus water which will cool down. Remember, you want to push the part out from the flange on the inside...not pull. If you really want the proper glue, call your local plastics store. There are bonding agents that will cure faster than epoxy and make a stronger bond. The thing with Super Glue is that if you have the kind that makes a sort of hard crystalized bond, it will break when you re-heat the part to put back into the socket. You want a bonding agent that is malliable when it cures.

Author:	Robert DeCastro [ Wed Nov 28, 2007 6:48 am ]
Post subject:
We'll this worked out better than I'd hoped. I used two part epoxy (15 min cure). Stuffed a bit of tissue in the arms so that only the top part of the shoulders up to the top of the flange was filled. Didn't even have to superglue the split cause the epoxy was thick. 30 min later and it was ready for re-installation. Heated the body up with hair dryer (just for about 15-20 sec). Put a lil soapy water on the arm and poped it back on. The only prep work I did was trim the flange a lilttle, wet sand the inside of the flange rinsed it out, and after it dried I swabed the inside with de-natured alcohol. Worked like a charm. Now I know what to do if something like this happens again. Oh BTW I was able to get Autodactyl a replacement FP. All is well again

Author:	Vombie [ Wed Nov 28, 2007 7:04 am ]
Post subject:
AWESOME. I'm glad it worked out sounds like you pretty much rule.

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Author:	bansheebot [ Wed Nov 28, 2007 8:54 am ]
Post subject:
Robert DeCastro wrote: Oh BTW I was able to get Autodactyl a replacement FP. All is well again $\":lol:\"$ Where are you finding all of these? Whoever has a stockpile, please don't hesitate to contact me.

Author:	Anti Social Andy [ Wed Nov 28, 2007 9:19 am ]
Post subject:
bansheebot wrote: Robert DeCastro wrote: Oh BTW I was able to get Autodactyl a replacement FP. All is well again Where are you finding all of these? Whoever has a stockpile, please don't hesitate to contact me. I'll join that queue too!