Any amount of color theory helps so that should carry over. The techniques however are vastly different. Even if you use an airbrush to paint, base or highlight your minis the execution is not the same nor are the results you’re looking to achieve. This is assuming of course you’re wanting to perform traditional soft vinyl paint applications. If you’re working on garage kits there’s definitely a bit more overlap.
Yep, traditional application is what I'm curious about. I just don't want to ruin perfectly good blanks with novice application. I want to try it, but I'm so afraid of screwing up. I know I could look at existing paint schemes as a template, but that doesn't mean I'd nail the application.
I haven't experimented with the blanks I have for the same reason. I don't really have the time to paint right now anyway, but at one point when I was looking to put my skills to the test I went and bought a tub of those cheap soft plastic (vinyl?) dinosaurs. I painted a handful and it was both rewarding and felt like not far off the experience of painting soft vinyl figures.
I agree with everything mentioned above. But, I'd also add: paint.
Some paints (enamels for instance) can chemically react with the soft vinyl materials, leaving a sticky mess that will stay tacky forever.
Acrylics and polyurethanes can inertly lay over the top of soft vinyl, but can experiencing chipping or pealing- especially around the joints, where movement may occur.
Vinyl paint is the only way to achieve a true chemical bond. It's formulated to basically act like liquid vinyl. So, if you prep the surface of your toy (clean it with dish soap/rinse, or wipe off with alcohol to remove any mold release or oils) and then wipe it with some vinyl thinner before painting, you'll get an extremely durable finish. Depending on the paint, possibly without the need of a clear coat.
You might be surprised how approachable it is to use! It's so nice to be able to put the ready-spray right in your airbrush and just go. As long as you're familiar with other solvent-based paints, clean up will be somewhat familiar (special thinner, fumes, gloves, proper ventilation and respiratory protection).
I think the part that was the scariest is aiming to preserve the base vinyl a bit to keep that sofubi soul. Meaning, you likely won't want to just keep layering paint to cover up mistake.
Luckily, one possible comfort is (as long as your paint didn't stain a more light colored vinyl) you can strip it real fast and start over.
Everything @SpectralNight is good advice. For some cheaper paint to experiment with I recommend something like Tamiya or Mr. Color. Both airbrush well but require thinning—that will provide an opportunity to practice getting ratios right should you ever invest in paint that isn’t pre-thinned. I recommend using these on “dummy” toys. You can use something like Mr. Surfacer as you would standard primer on minis.
One more quick question - I know you've gotta be careful with rattlecans on plastic, but can you get away with the Testors Glosscoat from Hobby Lobby, for a clear coat?
You *might* get lucky with lacquer on some types of vinyl (clear and glow moldings could be more temperamental and be a huge mess). But if it’s enamel: that will almost definitely cause a horrible meltdown and leave a melty sticky mess forever.
So, yeah super risky. Would test on some flare trimmings first. But would mostly advise against it to be safe. I think it’s hard to find exactly what formulations are in rattle cans.
Thanks again! I’ll take no shortcuts. I have to decide whether it’s worth the $$$ to get the actual good paints (including clear coat), and keep far away if I can’t commit to that.
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