Discussion in 'Custom Toys and Fan Art' started by Rich, Jan 13, 2008.
Please don't antagonise the snowflakes!
Seems like the thinner evaporates very quickly which causes the paint to thicken (and dry eventually). By replenishing a little thinner here and there, I was able to hand paint for about an hour with no real issues.
Another question: Clear coating unpainted vinyl. A big portion of my toy is unpainted, should I still clear coat the whole thing? I feel like the answer is yes otherwise it'll be uneven but it just feels a little odd coating something that doesn't really need it. If I had masks, it would be possible to only clear coat the painted parts but I don't.
You shouldn’t have to do the whole thing. That’s a waste of paint. Like I mentioned, thin it A LOT, then layer it. It will blend in with the blank parts. This is what I do
So you use mr color for brush work and clear coat over that for protection?
Yes. But honestly I will cost for both a nice sheen and so paints match. But it bonds quite well and doesn’t require it.
Thanks! Do you still feel like you need the full air mask and everything when you are handbrushing with Mr.Color or can you do that without all the safety measures?
O I stopped using that years ago. I use a full face mask ( covers the eyes , to many times of getting thinner in my eye... it’s worse than mase) with organic vapor filters. Works even better than forced air.
But to be honest it’s only because I’m sensitive to fumes. Immediate head aches without it.
Any tips for rubs?
I sprayed my figure, then the next day, wet a rag with thinner and rubbed off the paint. Worked pretty well except I realized I should have used a lint-free cloth. Any other tips?
I keep seeing pictures of people's workstations littered with tall plastic bottles seemingly filled with paint, but I tested a plastic container when I first started painting and the thinner ate right through it...what am I missing?
This video made me realize that I probably need an airbrush upgrade. I could never paint this close. Seems like mine has a hair trigger for allowing air to pass through, it's either all or nothing, no in-between. PSI is pretty low too, so I don't think that's my problem. It's an entry level Badger, but other than that no complaints. Any tips are appreciated though, maybe I'm missing something.
@Patrickg2k youre definitely going to want a dual-action brush.
they work where you push down for air and pull back to control paint flow.
also to answer your question about the bottles. you can use empty plastic water bottles.
but since I dont mix that much paint i feel like they waste paint and the caps get shitty.
I prefer the 2oz boston rounds with plastic cap from specialty bottle. and I keep a brown boston round with dropper for quick access of thinner, incase i need to fine tune the paint in my brush.
Thanks for the tips, I really appreciate it. My current airbrush claims to be dual-action but it just doesn't work that way, maybe I just need to disassemble/clean/tweak.
I started using small glass bottles similar to the boston rounds and they work really well, the dropper is also a great tip, I use one for my thinner and it's very handy. I coincidentally have a ton of plastic droppers so I use those to transfer paint to airbrush and palette.
Any tips for glossy clear coat options? The clear coat from Mad Ape is nice but it only gets slightly glossy and only after several applications.
no problem man. I dont store my paint with the dropper caps because they let air in and will dry out the paint quicker. I'll just use a dropper sometimes if i need to do some precision color mixing.
with the clear coat you should be able to just use one coat but you have to fully wet the area quickly. the overspray will come off as more foggy. so if you clear one area and then try to do more nearby, it will fog up the area you did before atleast with what i've experienced. I feel like you need a large nozzle gun to properly clear with v-color/mad ape (??) maybe @Paulkaiju or @Rich can chime in on that. I've been wondering about that for awhile... I try to just get my paints glossy enough without having to clear because I have a hard time with it. I do know for sure that all paints will fog up if it's too humid where you're painting. If I'm painting in my garage I wont paint above 55% humidity.
I'm doing a lot of experimenting with different methods of using the Mad Ape clear coat so I'll report back with my findings. As for the humidity, it's killing me lately. I paint in my garage and I feel like there's only a few weeks each year where the combination of humidity and temperature are ideal.
I use an additive from FOK called "anon" to prevent the clouding (Imagine how humid it gets in Japan!), but you can also use "retarder" or use a heat gun to rid the cloudiness.
Thanks for getting back to us Paul. So.. the paint dries in like two seconds.. do you use the heat gun after that?
Yes, the clouding will go away. Sorry for the late reply!
you should be okay, if toy use PETE plastic bottles.
Thanks for the tip, Neil! I'll try this out, but I suspect this was my issue since I was using #5 or #6 small plastic containers which basically just melted. I always recycle my #1 plastics but I'll reserve a few that might work.
Anyone have any tips on sourcing small o-rings for airbrushes? Badger doesn't seem to offer them and I don't want to buy a massive assortment on the off-chance one might fit. The rubber o-ring near the tip of my airbrush is crumbling and when I re-assembled I got some bubbles in the cup. Hand-tightened as tight as I could and taped it up (works for now) but that's not exactly a sustainable solution..
Try coast air they have tons of badger parts
THANK YOU!!!!! Just placed an order.
Thanks for that link! I was needing an o ring, and some other stuff for my CR.
If you buy an iwata higher grade airbrush anything but there neo line, they offer maintenance with part replacement and deep cleanings for a good price and you don’t have to worry about getting the wrong parts or having a hard time installing them.
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