How to paint with V-Color

I doubt anything will come of it but I was thinking about trying my hand at painting blanks, nothing major, just for fun, the artist in me wants to indulge my own imagination. I remember reading about V-Color when KT had it but it seems you can't get it imported into the states anymore. Is there any kind of paint you can use for soft vinyl and have access to here in the states?

Monster Kolor. There's threads all about it, comments right about yours about it, and a whole Monster Kolor forum happy to help It's a slightly different approach than V-color, but it's the best paint you can buy.

Hmm I clicked on one of the links in a thread about Monster Kolor before posting and it went to an empty store. Are they still active?

Hmm I clicked on one of the links in a thread about Monster Kolor before posting and it went to an empty store. Are they still active?

Resource:
http://monsterkolor.ning.com/

Store direct:
http://www.monsterkolorstore.com/

(Something witty about common sense re: your sig, and Google.)

I think we should rename this thread to "How to paint with Monster Kolor"

I think we should rename this thread to "How to paint with Monster Kolor"

There's a whole forum for MK...

I just thinned down my 1/2 ounce bottles of MK into 3 Oz bottles, and it works, amazingly... Laquer thinner, from a paint store... I'm using Sunnyside... It's so smooth now, and It's supposed to come pre thinned and ready to shoot, I suppose I could, but the stuff has such great coverage and high pigment levels, that there's no reason not to... MK is the cleanest, best paint I've ever used...

I just thinned down my 1/2 ounce bottles of MK into 3 Oz bottles, and it works, amazingly... Laquer thinner, from a paint store... I'm using Sunnyside... It's so smooth now, and It's supposed to come pre thinned and ready to shoot, I suppose I could, but the stuff has such great coverage and high pigment levels, that there's no reason not to... MK is the cleanest, best paint I've ever used...

It's def easier (not mixing) as opposed to always having to mix v-color... occasionally i'll thin MK if it starts to thicken up...

Had a few questions regarding airbrush equipment and setup...

1. Is this a suitable spray booth for airbrushing, or does anyone have experience with a booth like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AIRBRUSH-SPRAY- ... 25675d7029

...or should I invest in something like one of the galvanized metal Paasche booths? Would this hose fit on the Paasche booth:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SPRAY-BOOTH ... 43a89350bf



2. I've never had any experience with airbrushing, can you pre-mix colors (MK brand colors) before spraying?



3. slipstar01 mentioned thinning out 1/2 oz. of MK into 3 oz. Anyone else have experience thinning out MK so thin? Sounds like a great idea to save on materials, but I wanted to know if the end result has been good/better/worse for others. If so, what 3 oz. bottles are you using for storage?



I think that's all for now. I think I'll probably shoot for the HP-C plus as it seems to be the "go to" airbrush around here. I plan to use a Porter-Cable 6 gallon 150 PSI pancake air compressor with an air filter regulator/moisture trap. I was hoping I wouldn't have to invest in a brand new compressor strictly for airbrushing, but according to my research, many have had great success using such compressors for airbrushing. I guess the last question would be...

4. Anyone else here use a piston over a diaphragm compressor?

If you have never used an airbrush before, the HP-C might be a bit overwhelming to start, not to mention an expensive item should you decide you don't really like it. I would recommend starting with a Iwata Revolution instead... way cheaper, super easy to use, and still high enough quality that it will last you a long time and do everything you want well beyond your novice attempts. The HP-C is the go-to brush for heavy painters, but an advanced level tool that would be a bit much to start with. Just something to consider.

If you have never used an airbrush before, the HP-C might be a bit overwhelming to start, not to mention an expensive item should you decide you don't really like it. I would recommend starting with a Iwata Revolution instead... way cheaper, super easy to use, and still high enough quality that it will last you a long time and do everything you want well beyond your novice attempts. The HP-C is the go-to brush for heavy painters, but an advanced level tool that would be a bit much to start with. Just something to consider.

Thanks for the tip.

Looked into the Revolution series, the CR seems to be my best bet, much cheaper than the HP-C plus.

Edit: I think I'm going to go with the cheaper spray booth as it looks like it can be easily packed up and stored away to save some room when I'm not using it.

Does anyone know on average how long it takes to process an order from Monster Kolor?

I think we should rename this thread to "How to paint with Monster Kolor"

If someone can post a link to a place we can get V-Color, I think people will stop talking about it

If someone can post a link to a place we can get V-Color, I think people will stop talking about it

That's what screwed it up the first time.

D-Lux wrote:

If someone can post a link to a place we can get V-Color, I think people will stop talking about it


That's what screwed it up the first time.

And if you don't know, well now you know.

Not really.

If someone can post a link to a place we can get V-Color, I think people will stop talking about it

That's what screwed it up the first time.

Ok well maybe a discrete PM then

For those in the states where Monster Kolor is apparently the only option, can you make the same range of colors as v-color? Can MK be mixed to create custom colors?

.... Can MK be mixed to create custom colors?

yessir

Good to know, thanks.

On a similar note, how does one go about doing a 'rub' paint job to a figure? Do you just paint it on with a brush or something or is it a more complicated process?

What are you guys using for respirators? I've been looking into supplied air, but really all I need right now is a new facemask, is anyone here worried about overspray particulates dulling your vision after years of painting?

Also If Rich ever looks in here, why did you choose the Moldex, and do you still like it/does it still work well?

What are you guys using for respirators? I've been looking into supplied air, but really all I need right now is a new facemask, is anyone here worried about overspray particulates dulling your vision after years of painting?

Also If Rich ever looks in here, why did you choose the Moldex, and do you still like it/does it still work well?

Funny I just actually got a new respirator. Its the one I have linked on the first page :

http://www.professionalequipment.com/mo ... spirators/

In the end I like it better than the supplied air. I have used 2 different supplied air systems now and each has its flaws and eventually break down leaving you in need of buying repair parts.

This respirator is hands down the best I have used, and with the cartridge that it comes with, it will kill any fume what so ever. You can almost spray directly into the mask and you will never know. SO much better than your run of the mill Home Depot stuff. And fits so comfortable, I usually sit at my booth for 3 hour clips and I'm fine.

Also I just discovered it looking for half mask respirators that would kill any sort of fume what so ever. From paint to acetone, anything that could present some sort of breathing hazard and this is what I came up with. Im not sure if its the best, but to me it works wonders and the cartridges will last you a LONG time before changes. But if you do get one get some extra just to have on hand. 5 sets will last you a year, this isn't counting the set the mask comes with.

As for your eyes, yeah get goggles if your worried. Ive been getting a LOT of fumes to my eyes with the way the way I sculpted the eye sockets. And getting fumes in your eye is just as bad as breaking it. You still feel like shit afterwards.

Last edited by Rich on Mon Feb 27, 2012 7:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.

About paint though,,,,,, well that I cant help out with anymore. Sorry guys. For that your gonna either have to find someone to ship it to you personally or use another brand.

I will say this, all my clears are from US sites, so its possible to piece it together. But that secret will go to my grave so don't ask

Good to know, thanks.

On a similar note, how does one go about doing a 'rub' paint job to a figure? Do you just paint it on with a brush or something or is it a more complicated process?

There are a few ways to do it, just experiment with what you think will do it. Honestly, everyone I talk to does it differently

Good to know, thanks.

On a similar note, how does one go about doing a 'rub' paint job to a figure? Do you just paint it on with a brush or something or is it a more complicated process?

Personally I watch a ton of video's of other artist's just to see how they're doing it, but honestly practice makes perfect, I can't tell you how many times I've stripped certain toys down to get a process right. I also have a small selection of "Junk" toys I practice different spray patterns with.

Todd Richardson did some nice Rub work on his Mecha Ollie custom...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQ0YZQNJMyY

Thanks for the insight Rich, I just ordered a 230 CFM silent fan, for my new spray booth, and I'm putting in an order for that mask right now, I hate the thought of getting the big C, when all I had to do was spend an extra 70 dollars a year to be safe. The 3M mask I've got is vastly overrated.

Thats a great video slipstar, I just wanted to ask with regards to rubs does that rag have acetone on it or does the paint just wipe off when wet? I've been experimenting with rubs but I don't have an airbrush so everythings hand applied