Mon Jun 02, 2014 6:13 am
Thu Jun 05, 2014 4:08 am
Thu Jun 05, 2014 4:28 am
Thu Jun 05, 2014 5:31 am
Thu Jun 05, 2014 9:49 pm
Fri Jun 06, 2014 8:20 am
Fri Jun 06, 2014 8:43 am
Fri Jun 06, 2014 8:53 am
moonbeams wrote:I'm hoping I just didn't screw up $200 worth of silicone.
Fri Jun 06, 2014 5:56 pm
Robert DeCastro wrote:moonbeams wrote:I'm hoping I just didn't screw up $200 worth of silicone.
Just gave this pic a good look, You might have a hell of a time pulling your castings out seeing atleast two of the legs locked in that half of the mold. I hope that silicone has a high tear strength rating cause it looks like you'll have to slice part of the mold to release the legs.
Fri Jun 06, 2014 8:42 pm
Sat Jun 07, 2014 6:33 am
hellointerloper wrote:What kind of silicone are you using? Smooth-on's Oomoo is pretty nice price-wise and the tear strength isn't bad. Mold Max 30 is tougher but the 1:10 mix ratio can be a pain in the butt.
Sat Jun 07, 2014 8:57 am
Sat Jun 07, 2014 9:10 am
gatiio wrote:Wow, I guess a YouTube search for 3 part molds was too much of a hassle.
I'm sorry that was such a waste, but the best way to prevent all of this is to do proper research. That figure was not going to fit in a 2 part from what it looks like. Unless you mold the legs and build the half there crosswise
I would suggest using clay to mold it with release vents and then clean up after casting, if you are too worried about the clay damaging, use brush on silicone for the first 1/2 inch or so, build a rig and mold the rest with a higher shore silicone and make a sleeve for it after it cures, way more work but it's almost fool proof and it will keep the mold from warping when it's in the library.
Finally, if you are worried about the cost, use fillers. Anything you don't really care about can fill the silicone; extra Legos, clay, even pieces of tin foil made into little balls. just make sure there's at least 3/4 in. Distance between the filler and the master and walls you don't want it to rip.
Mon Jun 09, 2014 6:43 am
Mon Jun 09, 2014 7:34 am
Tue Jun 10, 2014 10:44 am
moonbeams wrote:Thank you for the tips. No pressure pot. If this fails, I'll separate the pieces. It has a tin foil wrapped around wire armature skeleton, though.
Tue Jun 10, 2014 2:36 pm
Robert DeCastro wrote:moonbeams wrote:Thank you for the tips. No pressure pot. If this fails, I'll separate the pieces. It has a tin foil wrapped around wire armature skeleton, though.
Just cut it. Use a fine toothed saw like a hack saw or a cut off wheel if you have a dremel, either one will work. Then just repair/modify each ends so it keys into each other. I would add some sort of design element to hide the joints if it bother you like a skin fold or something.
Tue Jun 10, 2014 9:03 pm
Wed Jun 11, 2014 6:29 am
Robert DeCastro wrote:moonbeams wrote:Thank you for the tips. No pressure pot. If this fails, I'll separate the pieces. It has a tin foil wrapped around wire armature skeleton, though.
Just cut it. Use a fine toothed saw like a hack saw or a cut off wheel if you have a dremel, either one will work. Then just repair/modify each ends so it keys into each other. I would add some sort of design element to hide the joints if it bother you like a skin fold or something.
Wed Jun 11, 2014 7:01 am
Wed Jun 11, 2014 7:08 am
Wed Jun 11, 2014 7:40 am
Robert DeCastro wrote:That sucks but its not beyond fixing. This is one of the reasons I switched to wax.
Wed Jun 11, 2014 8:06 pm
Wed Jun 11, 2014 9:38 pm
Fri Jun 13, 2014 10:33 am
computerhair415 wrote:Robert DeCastro wrote:That sucks but its not beyond fixing. This is one of the reasons I switched to wax.
If you dont mind me asking what type of wax are you using?